Friday, January 30, 2015

Tally Ho

The Coachman rides high into SoMa


It's a good problem to have.

SF's restaurant roster is so deep that when you need to impress a dinner date, there are dozens of options. And they're constantly getting better.

Charles Phan has infused the very best from his stops at Slanted Door and Hard Water (your former date go-tos) for his revival of The Coachman pub downtown.

He’s driving this stagecoach in a decidedly more genteel English fashion. You can say adieu to Heaven’s Dog and hullo to posh cuisine of the dandy landed gentry.

Chef Ross Wunderlich (famous for his wunderbar cooking at Bar Tartine, SPQR, and A16) serves up an exceptional take on English pub grub, from beef tartare to blood sausage, and dry-aged prime rib with Yorkshire pudding.

And don't worry: If you don’t eat your meat, you can still have your pudding.

And by pudding, we mean cocktails inspired by 19th-century books: Regent’s Punch, Knickerbocker, and our personal favorite, Robert Burns Hunting Flask Redbreast whiskey with currants, ginger and lemon, all served in a flask (nice touch).

Just beware of delinquents pelting the Google bus on your way out. The Coachman has no control over bus men.

The Coachman
1148 Mission Street, SOMA
(415) 813-1701

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Metered street
Scene: Sophisticates and the downtown crowd stopping in after work for cocktails
Best bets: Skate wing, beef tartare, carrots and lentils, and the Sherry Cobbler, cask-conditioned ales, and farmhouse ciders
Regency style: Amber honey walls contain different varieties of honey that glow with golden light. The open kitchen and long cypress bar provide a casual and inviting atmosphere while watching the chefs hard at work.
Alta, CA; Victory Hall & Parlor; TBD

Spread The Word

More Stories

Recent Rundowns