Friday, January 30, 2015

Where There's Fire

Smokestack comes howlin’ like a wolf into Dogpatch


You know all that time you've logged in at Magnolia Pub?

Thank you. Because it allowed brewmaster Dave McLean (who has been to 150 Grateful Dead shows) to open Smokestack
Magnolia's new digs in a former can factory in Dogpatch named after a Dead cover of “Smoke Stack Lightning” by Howlin’ Wolf.

What a long strange trip it’s been from the small basement brewery in Haight, but Smokestack has possibly brought even more sass to the historic district.

Dennis Lee (Namu Gaji) has taken BBQ influences from the south and Asia to create a uniquely SF wood-fired barbecue. Indulge in beef brisket and housemade sausages. You can also count on reliable sides of slaw, burnt ends heirloom beans, housemade pickles, and counter service, meaning you can order by sight and by pound in classic BBQ tradition.

And of course, the hops made the trip across town. You'll have 15 beers on tap to choose from well-loved classics like Proving Ground IPA, Blue Bell Bitters, and Kalifornia Kölsch and even select American whiskies.

The giant industrial space has been transformed with a long marble-topped bar, hemlock hardwood floors, and a mezzanine above the kitchen facing the bar. You can watch the brewers chat with servers through a small salvaged window, because, hey, brewmasters have their secrets, too.

You know, like the opening date (it's April Fool's Day-- shhhh!), but it should be any day now.

Ain't no time to hate, barely time to wait.

2505 Third St., Dogpatch

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Metered street
Scene: Dogpatch locals, old Magnolia Pub friends, and craft beer enthusiasts
Best bets: Smoked pork belly; collard greens with Kölsch, miso and chili; and Namu’s signature old family recipe kimchee.
Shipyard specs: NY design firm Nothing:Something featured the high ceilings and exposed piping that supplies beer to the bar to great effect. Custom-bulit tabletops and benches were made from an old black acacia tree next to Magnolia Pub in the Haight.
Third Rail; Serpentine; Piccino

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