Saturday, July 26, 2014

Wabi-Sabi

Daniel Patterson unveils a new design and staff at Coi

Full_coifinal

Dining at Coi is a mystical experience.

Maybe not as mystical as that True Detective finale we can't stop thinking about, because nothing's as creepy as all that Carcosa voodoo. But still, you know, mystical.

As in, the menu may blow your mind into a thousand incandescent pieces.

You're no doubt overwhelmed by Daniel Patterson's pledge to offer a nightly menu based on the best ingredients in the vicinity. A recent prix-fixe menu included an umami bomb of black trumpet-sunchoke dumplings, and charcoal-grilled aged duck break breast paired with cracked bulgur, young turnip, and eucalyptus.

See? Mystical.

After eight years of acclaim, Coi has a new look and new staff, bringing on leadership from The French Laundry and a new wine director.

Patterson’s Zen Buddhist touches highlight a new tranquil design. If you've ever wanted to dine in a room resembling a primeval forest, this should do the trick.

A radiant glimmer illuminates craftsmanship all around you, from taupe walls to dark leather chairs to live-edge wood tables hosting your date and you. As you dine, point out the pottery and glass-blown vases, as well as the stunning custom-designed chandelier in the private dining room.

You're not one who doesn't appreciate beauty.

Coi coirestaurant.com
373 Broadway St., FiDi
(415) 393-9000
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Price: 4 (out of 4)
Noise: 1 (out of 4)
Parking: Metered street
Scene: Foodies and serious patrons searching for a genuine and unforgettable dining experience beyond "haute cuisine."
Best bets: Anything from the tasting menu will astonish your senses
Spiritual aesthetic: Refined design updates include umber and charcoal tones and above the tables an installation of undulating woodwork with pinpricks of light as a focal point.
Nearby: Tosca Cafe;
Rickhouse; 15 Romolo

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