3. Build your fire.
Live fire is best. So if you have the space, burn baby burn! Chef Jan likes to start a fire with a bit of paper and walnut, then adds mesquite charcoal. Once that's caught, he topps it with a heavier wood (think oak). You never want to cook on flame — always on a developed ember bed — so expect to spend about an hour building your fire.
Sound too difficult? Get that gas grill going. Just remember that, like a live fire, you'll need to preheat until that temperature gauge maxes out.