Thursday, January 29, 2015

Tony Tony Tony

The North Beach pizza mogul does Chicago-style deep dish with speakeasy style


Tony Gemignani's at it again.

Barely two years after branching out into coal-fired pies, the North Beach pizza king is diving into deep dish with Capo's, a prohibition-themed Chicago-style pizza palace and Whiskey bar scheduled to open Friday.

Stepping inside, you'll feel as though you're walking into a scene from The Untouchables.

After a long week, you're more Al Capone than Elliot Ness: in need of the hard stuff. Luckily, they've got nearly 100 whiskies to choose from, with a list focusing on small, artisanal names including Hirsch Kentucky Straight 25 Year Rye and High West Campfire.

The only thing prettier than that ornate Art Deco bar? The fact your order earns you a $1 token towards the next round, which is especially helpful considering this joint is cash-only (how could it be otherwise?).

Once the edge is off, now it's onto the round stuff. Ask about the Quattro Forni, a pan pizza which is baked, deep fried, baked again, then finished in a wood-fired oven. 

They only make 20 of these babies every day,
so order early, or have a back-up plan in the form of one of seven Chicago-style pies, then decide how you want it: deep dish, stuffed crust, cracker thin, or in a cast iron pan.

This being one of Tony's joints, you can't go wrong. Any way you slice it, it's going to be awesome.

641 Vallejo St. (at Stockton)
(415) 986-8998

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Valet or metered street
Hot seat: The Capone Booth, a chaise-lounge-style booth with a display table showcasing Tony's personal collection of Capone memorabilia. Note the booth's placement near multiple exits, so you can make a gangster-style escape whether you're running from the feds, or a bad first date.
Your call: Waiting for someone? Put away that iPhone 5 and step inside the vintage phone booth where you're welcome to  call anyone in the continental US free of charge.
Extra extra: Grab an old school paper copy of the Chronicle, Wall Street Journal, or Chicago Tribune hanging near the bar and mutter at the editorials while you enjoy your Chicago Cocktail.
ATM: No need to worry about running out of dough. There's an ATM tucked away in the rear of the resto.
Nearby: Eden Lounge; Bottle Cap; Tony Nik's

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