Thursday, January 29, 2015

New San Franciscan

Central Kitchen & Salumeria lives up to the hype

It's nearly impossible to get into Flour + Water. Even booking a month out, you'll be stuck with a table at 5:30 or 10p.

But you can score a table sooner (if you hurry) at its new sister restaurant, Central Kitchen & Salumeria.

Invite your favorite FILF (Foodie I'd Like To... you know) to join you at this simple, but elegant space (wood tables sans tablecloths, earth-toned paneled walls) for familiar, New American cuisine prepared in new and exciting ways.

As in yes, you'll be able to pronounce everything on your plate. And yes, you've probably even had it before.

Just never quite like this.

Take the ham appetizer, for example. House-made ham is topped with greens and herbs (including edible flowers), marinated bread, and cabot clothbound. Essentially, it's a deconstructed ham sandwich.

But the presentation is so gorgeous, and the flavors so vibrant, you'll be saying "wow" (between mouthfuls, of course).

Simple. Elegant. Yet somehow nostalgic.

Just like San Francisco.

Central Kitchen & Salumeria
3000 20th St. (Florida St.), The Mission
(415) 826-7004

Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out o 4)
Parking: Street
Scene: Local foodies rushing to find out whether Chef Thomas McNaughton can make a repeat performance
Best bets: Ham; lamb; honey chiboust
Hot seat: On the patio under the retractable roof.
Getting in: If you can't score a reservation, show up a few minutes before they start dinner service — they keep a few seats available for walk-ins.
Nearby: Flour + Water; Shotwell's; Blowfish Sushi to Die For

The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.

Photo by Molly DeCoudreaux

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