Saturday, January 31, 2015

The Cow That Roared

Red Cow has the steak frites game on lockdown


Feel like a steak? Of course you do.

Ethan Stowell's counting on itOne of Seattle's most prolific restaurateurs just opened a Madrona spot that's all about the classic combo of swift-seared steak and crispy pommes frites.

He's taking a risk with Red Cow — the spot it's in has seen four restaurants in five years — but if there's anyone who can make it work, it's Stowell.

And not just because of his pasta-focused pedigree, or the fact that this place takes its inspiration from classic French brasserie food (mussels in white wine and chicken liver pate).

The real raison d'etre for Red Cow is steak frites.

Six cuts of beef — everything from a $21 hanger steak to a gargantuan bone-in ribeye for two that clocks in at $75 — come paired with perfectly crisped French fries and your choice of four sauces.

A solid wine selection just seals the deal, and seals off the location's curse.

Grab your knives and book a table. This meat won't age forever.

Red Cow
1423 34th Ave, Madrona
(206) 454-6932

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Best bets: Frisee and bacon salad; foie gras; ribeye and fries
Nearby: Bottlehouse; The Neighbor Lady; The Twilight Exit

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