Sunday, February 1, 2015

A Phoenix in Alki

Cassis re-opens on the other side of town


In 2004, Seattle's culinary scene was a vastly different place. The city hadn't yet embraced its foodie side, and places like Jef Fike's brilliant French bistro Cassis were few and far between.

After closing his restaurant's Cap Hill location, Fike spent the intervening decade polishing his skills all over town, including legendarily over-the-top private club The Ruins.

Perhaps it was the Seahawks. We don't care. All we know is he's back with a vengeance.

Not only has the new Cassis just re-opened in a prime Alki beachfront spot, Fike's dedication to fresh food is over the top, even by his old standards.

How fresh are we talking? The place doesn't even have a freezer. 

It shows in the food, which ranges from bistro classics (perfectly-seared steak frites) to the unusual (pork loin stuffed with chard and prunes).

Eastern Washington winery Proletariat provides the house wines, with over 20 other vintages on a well-curated list, and the bar (naturally) handles craft cocktails ably.

Given the food, location, and all of Fike's bikini-clad neighbors, maybe we should all take 10-year sabbaticals.

2820 Alki Ave SW, West Seattle
(206) 743-8531

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 1 (out of 4)
Best bets: Seared duck; stuffed pork loin; fish soup
Nearby: Phoenecia; Contigo; Small Vineyards

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