Friday, January 30, 2015

Booming Market

Ethan Stowell's mkt. is tiny in size but big on taste


Thanks to How To Cook A Wolf and Tavolata, Ethan Stowell has already left a permanent mark on Seattle's culinary scene.

And his tiny new Tangletown spot is the period on that sentence.

mkt. (no caps, please) seats just 28 people in 600 square feet, with the five plum seats facing the open kitchen. And from the kitchen, strong and seasonal magic emerges under the direction of chef Joe Ritchie (who worked at Poppy and the Herbfarm). 

Our new high-protein go-to: albacore ceviche with citrus-cucumber ice and pickled red onions. Our end-of-a-rough-week go-to: fried quail with plum sauce.

Or just get both. The plates are tapas-sized for sharing, so bring friends, acquaintances, that cute neighbor from down the hall — if you're not close before you arrive, you will be after a night of squeezing in.

As befits a high-end Seattle dining experience, cocktails have a gimmick: they're all barrel-aged and served from taps behind the bar. Go for the TKO (Cazadores blanco tequila, Fernet, Angostura bitters, and Carpano Antica sweet vermouth).

After a few sips, you'll be glad they shortened the name from "market" to mkt.

2108 N 55th St, Wallingford
(206) 812-1580

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Best bets: Fried quail with spicy dates; duck egg; seared halibut
Nearby: Elysian Brewpub; Kate's; Grizzled Wizard

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