Sunday, February 1, 2015

Sandwich Meat

Rain Shadow Squared puts meat on bread and wins


Russell Flint is Seattle's favorite meat man.

Since opening the first Rain Shadow Meats at Melrose Market in 2009, he's sourced flesh from all over the West Coast to appreciative palates. Now, Russell wants to make your lunch. Better.

Rain Shadow Meats Squared is Flint's new Pioneer Square butcher shop. It's got all of the high-quality carne you need -- hazelnut-finished pork, meatballs wrapped in caul fat, and beautiful Painted Hills beef -- but they also make some stuff you can eat right there.

Like sandwiches. Of the quartet, we recommend the Romesco, made with perfectly pink housemade roast beef, packed thick and topped with arugula, pickled onions, and chevre. They also make a dynamite mortadella sandwich with tangy olive tapenade.

If you like it raw, lose the bread, the cheese, even the oven, and keep the mighty meat: the Harlow Cattle Co. steak tartare.

They have a few salads, too, for mixed company. And they're even brewing up their own house-made celery soda, in addition to beer and wine.

Like with the tartare, it's a bit of an acquired taste.

Rain Shadow Meats Squared
404 Occidental Ave S, Pioneer Square
(206) 467-4845

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Best bets: Steak tartare; Romesco; pressed porchetta
Nearby: Salumi; Maneki; Green Leaf

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