Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Knotty, But Nice

Wüd's bark is even better than its bites


At this point, you're pretty familiar with the New Nordic Cuisine trend sweeping the city: Aska, Acme, Luksus, Skal — all serving dainty plates of fermented fish parts and obscure nettles sourced from nearby haunted forests.
And now comes the next logical phase of scavenged eating: Wüd, where only the finest twigs, branches, saplings, and sawdust are on the menu.
The kitchen team is a who's-who of Noma vets who drive upstate before dawn each morning to collect logs and their lichens for dishes like the roasted block of black oak drizzled with a sassafras emulsion.
If you try anything, don’t miss the birch tartare topped with fir-pitch “yolk," which also happens to go well with what they're mixing up at the bar. The dogwood daiquiri is particularly, well, woody.
And since wood happens to be highly fiber-rich, your gastroenterologist will be more than pleased with you swapping organ meats for mulch. To that effect, Wüd has 15 available bathrooms for its 20 precious seats, so you don't need to worry about an emergency stop into Starbucks on your way home.
Just watch out for splinters — from every which way.

265 Park Pl. (E. 1st St.), East Village

Price: 4 out of 4
Noise: 0 out of 4
Scene: Calm but foreboding like the ancient forests of yore.
Is this a joke? Yes, it's April Fools'.

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