Once upon a time, there was a guy named Bobby Flay. Everything he touched landed upon a grill, flecked with chilies and a flare of fire.
If you're thinking "Bam!" you're close, but no cigar.
Now, only six months since shuttering his long-standing Mesa Grill, the Iron Chef's back in town with Gato, a massive but mellow paean to the Mediterranean.
Which means this is a different kind of Flay. It's nothing like the grab-bag of flavors at Bar Americain, or even the Southwestern '90s time capsule that was Mesa.
Here, think simple, but not one-note: scrambled eggs with romesco, crab risotto, squid with bacon and garlic. Oh, and if you want some old-school seared-and-spicy Flay, order the charred carrots with harissa and yogurt.
While you could do a lot worse than Gato's steak with Spanish blue cheese at your table, you could also park it at the bar — which takes up half of this joint — and request a round of tapas-style small plates with your French 75.
And, if you're very careful, you can hear a soft whisper in the sizzle of your crispy prawns: "Allez cuisine."