Monday, January 26, 2015

Louie, Louie

French Louie brings a bit of our northern neighbors to Brookyln


Photo: Courtesy of @josephfogliadesigns

You'd better start practicing your accent, you hosers. First came Tim Hortons, and then Mile End and M. Wells.

And now, meet French Louie, the new Canadian-ish bistro from the Buttermilk Channel crew.
It's named after an Ottawan trapper-hermit who would announce his rare arrival in town by making animal noises, not unlike that roommate you had in college.
Inside, though, it's a refined but casual restaurant with tall leather banquettes and marble-topped tables, but the menu's hardly ripped from the bistro playbook.
For the most part, French Louie sticks to Gallic roots with its snails served with a red wine reduction and house-cured bacon and its bavette steak with anchovy butter and frites. 
Then there's the odd hint of South Asian influence, like the chili oil on the steak tartare or the kaffir lime pistou on the kabocha squash, or some more Frenchness by way of NOLA with the crab dirty rice.
Even the cocktails have an accent: The Normandy Old Fashioned gets Frenchified with calvados and cognac. Oh, and just a dash of maple.
Blame Canada.

French Louie
320 Atlantic Ave. (Hoyt St.), Boerum Hill
(718) 935-1200

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 1 (out of 4)
Subway: A/C/G to Hoyt-Schermerhorn
Scene: Despite the trapper theme, you can leave your pelts at home.
Nearby: Char No. 4; Rucola; Mile End

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