Photo: Daniel Krieger.
The word "institution" gets thrown around a lot in this town — Katz's, Russ & Daughters, The "21" Club.
Well, we're gonna throw it around again. Gallaghers, a steakhouse institution since 1927, is back.
After closing for a little over a year, it's dropped the apostrophe and added a few new items to satisfy contemporary tastes, from hamachi crudo with yuzu to spicy tuna poke.
But you don't become an institution with yuzu (not that it's not damn good). Clams casino, wedge salads, and a street-facing meat locker filled with aged, prime steaks? Yeah, that's how you do it.
Those steaks — bone-in sirloin, prime rib, a porterhouse for four, for God's sake — are grilled over hickory logs and served with classic sides of creamed spinach, buttered carrots, and the like. After that? Cheesecake and key lime pie.
It's not about reinventing gastronomy at this joint. It's about reviving old romantic New York, when cigarettes were good for you and lunch always came on the rocks.
Excuse us. We're getting a little misty.