Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Bet the Farm

Narcissa serves up fresh farm fare at The Standard East Village


We could probably make up some romantic backstory as to how Narcissa, the new joint by hotelier André Balazs, got its name.

Truth is, it was named after a cow.

Apparently she's a feisty cow, too, living at Balazs' very own upstate farm, Locusts on Hudson. That's quite the long haul from Balazs' The Standard East Village, where her namesake restaurant now lives.
Clearly a dude of impeccable taste, Balazs knew what he was doing when he tapped John Fraser, the guy behind uptown's Michelin-starred Dovetail, to head up the kitchen here.
Being as unpredictable as its namesake, Narcissa will constantly change its menu depending on what's available at Balazs' farm, but you can expect a lot of roasted and rotisserie-cooked fare.
That rotisserie isn't just for meat, though. It'll also hold crispy beets served with bulgur, apples, and creamed horseradish. There will be protein, of course, but it'll often play backup to the vegetables and grains. So definitely order those carrot fries first, and save room for the barley risotto with Manila clams.

And you should take your time over those plates. What used to be an overlarge space that housed The Trilby and Faustina was cut down to more manageable size — with the other partition given over to the new Café Standard — that's light and cozy and open, all at the same time.
Is it a date spot? You bet. (Hint: 2 weeks to V-Day). And, lucky for you, they've got rooms upstairs, too.

The Standard East Village, 21 Cooper Sq. (E. 5th St.), East Village
(212) 228-3344

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)

Subway: 6 to Astor Pl.
Scene: Your average East Village melange of suits and smart-casual.
Nearby: PDT; Cienfuegos; Library at The Public

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