Sunday, January 25, 2015

Head South

Bill Telepan is making cheese balls at Telepan Local


Don't get us wrong. It's not that we don't love Telepan.
It's the kind of spot you neaten your tie for, where you're presented a wine list the size of a Gutenberg Bible before you delicately cut into a beautiful portion of goose leg confit.
But sometimes we crave something a little more casual, a little more, you know, downtown.
Enter Telepan Local, where we can have our unfussy farm-to-table cake and eat it, too.
Bill Telepan is NYC culinary royalty, but that doesn't mean he's above an all-day menu offering cheese balls, pigs in blankets, and shrimp poppers. That's because he throws in some foie gras "jammers" for good measure, too.
The downtown space looks nothing like the original, with light wood paneling and subway tiles alerting you that you are indeed below 34th St. (As if the corned tongue ubiquitous in these parts didn't tell you that already.)
In fact, you'll even loosen your tie here over your sourdough pie piled with bacon and your cherry-infused rye sour.
The wine list is only there if you need it.

Telepan Local
329 Greenwich St. (Duane St.), Tribeca
(212) 966-9255

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)

Subway: 1 to Franklin St.
Scene: Only wear a suit jacket if it's over jeans.
Nearby: Jungsik; Sarabeth's Tribeca; Terroir Tribeca

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