Sunday, February 1, 2015

Turning Japanese, Again

Bisutoro burger and whiskey bistro, compliments of Iron Chef Morimoto


Remember how we told you to high-tail it to Tribeca Canvas? Well, scratch that.
Chef Morimoto wasn't totally happy with how that concept was working out, so he — along with the brains behind Macao Trading Co. and Los Americanos — swapped in a new, even better spot in its place. It's called Bisutoro, and it's your new burger-and-whiskey den.
The restaurant's name means "bistro" in Japanese, but it's more than just that. This time around, the hamachi nachos have become hamachi sashimi, and the lamb ragu buns have become short rib buns. 
The mains, however, are where it gets really good, and veers away from Canvas. Steak frites get spiced up with togarashi butter. And the burger? Wagyu, of course, with teriyaki onions and wasabi aioli.
The tonkatsu pork isn't some measly cutlet, it's a massive Berkshire chop, fried and topped with kimichi and katsu sauce.
Oh, and if there's one thing the Land of the Rising Sun knows better than fish and well-marbled beef, it's whiskey. You'll want the Tebori Cocktail, an Old Fashioned turned Japanese with Hakushu 12-Year whiskey, sugar, bitters, and a lemon twist.

Sayonara, Canvas.

313 Church St. (Lispenard St.), Tribeca
(212) 727-0644

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: N/R/A/C/E to Canal St.
Scene: Japanese tattoo designs adorn the walls, and tattooed patrons sit below them.
Hot seat: As at Tribeca Canvas, it's always better to be upstairs.
Best bets: Steak frites; wagyu burger; Tebori cocktail
Nearby: Kutsher's Tribeca; Macao Trading Co.; Brandy Library

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