Thursday, January 29, 2015

Ladies' Choice

An all-female staff of top-notch bartenders heads up Grace


You can now cancel your Google alert for "pirate queen NYC." One has finally landed on our shores.

She's called Grace, named after Ireland's 16th-cenury pirate queen Grace O'Malley, and we'll be damned if she doesn't serve up some fine tipple.

That's entirely due to her ladies-only staff of some of the city's finest mixologists — vets of Death & Co., The NoMad, and Clover Club among them — whose names prominently appear alongside their complex creations on the bar menu.

Case in point: Pam Wiznitzer's Blind Abbot (above right), with Irish whiskey, coffee, cinnamon syrup, Galliano, and bitters; or Franky Marshall's Belclare (above left) with Louis Royer "Force 53" VSOP Cognac, grapefruit liqueur, white crème de cacao, absinthe, and a squeeze of lemon.

Not exactly your by-the-book Manhattan.

A pub at heart, Grace does dinner just as well as drinks, with a deep nod to the sea. (Pirates, remember?) The raw bar offers littleneck clams and East Coast oysters, which are just fine before you plunge into grilled sea scallops or crispy cod and fries served with a bacon aioli.

That's a plank we'll walk every single time.

365 3rd Ave. (E. 26th St.), Kip's Bay
(646) 918-6553

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: 6 to 28th St.
Scene: Plenty of wenches; not nearly enough pirate boots.
Best bets: Gallow Glass; grilled scallops; crispy cod
Nearby: Maialino; Jazz Standard; Les Halles

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