Thursday, January 29, 2015

Meat Pie

Quality Italian serves a chicken parm the size of your head


Before we begin, a warning:

That is not a pizza up there. Repeat, not a pizza.

It is, in fact, a pizza-sized chicken parm masquerading as a pizza at Quality Italian, and you should not attempt to tackle it on your own.

Hell, it might just kill you. If you choked on it, that is. But don't do that.

The rest of the menu at this AvroKO-designed spot (kid sister to Quality Meats nearby) is slightly less deadly, but not exactly light fare.

The balsamic-laquered filet is served with crispy bone marrow (read: fried marrow) and the roasted veal shank is laced with black truffles and robiola — yet another twofer. (The meats, naturally, are from Quality Meats, so you can expect quality. And meat.)

You could go ever so slightly lighter with the lobster diavolo-meets-vodka or a handful of small plates: Japanese eggplant polpette, Piedmontese steak tartare, and oysters "Ricci," served with jalapeno and sea urchin butter.

And since this is an Italian joint, you can expect all manner of pleasantly strange and bitter cocktails: a red bell pepper martini, a burnt sugar take on a Manhattan — you get the idea.

The only downside? They're not served in the shape of a pizza.

Quality Italian
57 W. 57th St. (6th Ave.), Midtown
(212) 390-1111

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: F to 57th St.
Scene: In AvroKO style, it's all old-world butcher-shop chic for a fine dining crowd.
Best bets: Chicken parm; veal shank; eggplant polpette
Nearby: Momofuku má pêche; Marea; Ippudo Westside

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