Saturday, January 31, 2015

Umami Dearest

West Coast beef cult Umami Burger invades the West Village


You've already heard of these burgers. They're the stuff of legend.

And while some legends (of the Fall; of Bagger Vance) are unqualified buzzkills, Umami Burger lives up to the hype.

This West Coast joint specializes in amping up everything it serves with glutamates — that tasty, meaty G in MSG.

It's the kind of place where the micheladas are made with mezcal, beer, and beef jerky, and the fries are served with a splotch of beer-y cheese and bacon lardons.

I.e., the closest you'll ever get to eating disco fries while (relatively) sober.

And then there are the burgers. Dear God in heaven, these burgers. Made from fresh-ground steak, all cooked exceptionally to medium rare, and piled just-right-high with umami-boosting toppings.

The Classic: oven-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions, shiitake caps, and a Parmesan crisp. The Manly: beer cheddar cheese and smoked salt-onion strings with yet more lardons. The Truffle: truffle cheese and truffle glaze, natch.

The only downside? Expect a looooong wait — up to three hours right now — because Umami Burger takes no reservations.

And no prisoners.

Umami Burger
432 6th Ave. (W. 10th St.), West Village
(212) 677-8626

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Subway: F/M/L to 6th Ave.
Scene: An effing madhouse
Hot seat: Are you kidding? Sit on a garbage can if they'll let you.
Best bets: Classic burger; truffle burger; sweet potato fries
Nearby: Highlands; Kin Shop; Wong

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