Monday, January 26, 2015

Ramen of Honor

Get bowled over at Ganso


It's officially fall, so that means three things: the return of toggle sweaters, the NFL, and decorative gourds (NSFW).

Also soup.

Which means its time to rock out with your broth out at ramen-ya Ganso, now serving up bowl upon bowl in Brooklyn.

Co-owned by food writer/Japanese grub fanatic Harris Salat and Ryuji Irie of Matsuri, the minimal pine-decked Ganso keeps it simple with four flavors of ramen and a smattering of small comfort foods.

Begin with buns stuffed with panko-crusted pork and a plate of fried karaage chicken, sauced with soy, garlic, and ginger. Don't fill up — just a soupçon before the soup's on, if you will.

Then, the main event. The house ramen's fine with its soy-sauce broth and two styles of pork, but the short rib version packs slow-braised beef and a slow-poached onsen egg into your brimming noodle bowl.

Just don't spill any on that toggle sweater. Or your gourds.

25 Bond St. (Livingston St.), Boerum Hill
(718) 403-0900

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: A/C/G to Hoyt-Schermerhorn
Scene: Noodle fanboys and -girls. Yeah, they're a thing.
Hot seat: Grab one of the large booths near the kitchen-adjacent counter to see the ramen drama unfold.
Best bets: Short rib ramen; kari-kari buns; fried chicken
Book it: Check out Salat's cookbooks to get more of the same flavor at home.
Nearby: Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare; The Smoke Joint; Mile End

Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.

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