Sunday, January 25, 2015

Cool Comfort

Worth Kitchen's new non-supper club, Cómodo


If there's one potentially disastrous factor about pop-up supper clubs, it's the possibility of being seated next to a weirdo all night.

That's why we're crushing hard on Cómodo, a laid-back spot sprung from the minds of the supper-club couple behind the migratory dinners dubbed Worth Kitchen.

This one's a proper restaurant, so you don't have to talk to any adjunct professors of philology while you're there. (Unless you want to.)

Cómodo — Spanish for "comfortable" — dwells in a suitably DIY space outfitted with rustic reclaimed wood tables, exposed brick, tabletop succulents, and a plaster bar. A setting ideal for serving up pan-Latin eats with a modern twist.

The chef and co-owner, Felipe Donnelly, made a name for himself at Worth with lamb sliders served on a South American cheesy bread called pão de queijo, both in abundance here. Pair those with spring rolls stuffed with salty queso fresco and puckering, flash-fried hibiscus.

There's more lamb with the large plates, this time smothered with mint goat cheese pesto and a mouth-coating side of duck fat-fried potatoes. But just try to ignore that coffee-rubbed cochinita (suckling pig) and you will lose.

That pig might be cooked, but she's stronger than you.

58 MacDougal St. (Houston St.), SoHo
(646) 370-4477

Price: 3 out of 4 Noise: 2 out of 4
Subway: C/E to Spring St
Scene: Supper club refugees and duck fat fiends
Hot seat: Slide into the communal table for that old Worth experience
Best bets: Pão de queijo lamb sliders; flash-fried hibiscus and queso fresco spring rolls; coffee-rubbed cochinita
Daytime dining: Stay tuned for lunch and brunch in the coming weeks.
Nearby: Miss Lily's; The Dutch; Souen

Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits from reporters, not press releases.

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