Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Pisco Dependent

Introducing your new favorite liquor at Raymi

Full_piscosourraymi

Now's the moment when you admit that you know next to nothing about pisco, except that Ernest Hemingway holds the record for the most pisco sours consumed in a sitting.

At Raymi, there's enough of the stuff to have turned poor Hemmy blind, so get to learnin'.

You'll remember this new Latin space as the short-lived Nuela, whose ghost of pan-Latin fusion gently haunts the entirely Peruvian menu.

Sizzling bowls of Chinese-inspired chaufa completa, with char siu chicken and fried rice, complement a massively crispy hunk of salmon floating in consommé.

And then, of course, there's ceviche. The yuzu-dressed tuna invokes sushi deconstructed, and the mixto packs your mouth with a whole ocean of raw scallops, octopus, shrimp.

But all of that's just a warm-up to the delicious South American brandy.

Start soft with the chilcano, a pisco/soda cocktail that reminds of a sexier 7&7. Then on to the chicha morada sours, topped with egg white and a drop of bitters.

But get your head straight when the waiter comes, because you have to pick from one of the 30 house-made pisco infusions. Or just point, smile, and glug.

Next stop, Hemingway history.

Raymi
43 W. 24th St. (5th Ave.), Flatiron
(212) 929-1200
richardsandoval.com/raymi

Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: N/R to 23rd St.
Scene: Equal parts tropic lounge and foodie destination, Raymi's perfect for a flirty first date meal.
Best bets: Tuna nikkei ceviche; chaufa completo; pisco sour
Kitchen cousins: This newest member of Richard Sandoval's global Latin-eats empire is co-helmed by Jaime Pesaque, of Lima's famed Mayta, and a team of Americans trained in Pesaque's Peru kitchen.
Nearby: Birreria; Junoon; SD26

The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits from reporters, not press releases.

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