You may have heard about this rooftop boîte on the top of the NoMad Hotel, where they may or may not be serving elegant dinners and holding secret Satanic rites.
OK, we made that last part up.
But until the cupola opens, whet your al fresco appetite at Tavern 29, a moody triple-decker den featuring a succinct selection of burgers and beer cocktails, with more refined stuff in between.
Kick back on the darkened first two floors with your best robber baron impression, digging into a romesco-sauced hanger steak over a glass of cabernet and plotting your next hostile takeover.
Aspiring industrialists can huddle up to the bar over an Astor or a Waldorf — made with 10-year Balvenie and sweet vermouth — and suck down cornmeal crusted oysters. Just like a Rockefeller.
There's also a fine house burger on rosemary focaccia, and a cool cocktail dubbed The Bronx is Burning (Bronx Brewery IPA laced with whiskey and ginger ale).
Then, head to the roof, where magnates and their minions mingle all together, sipping stouts and snacking on sausages, and speculating on just what is developing on top of that hotel down the street.
Don't forget your binoculars.
47 E. 29th St (Madison Ave.), NoMad
Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: 6 to 28th St.
Scene: Flatiron folk desperate for a respite from Madison Square Park.
Best bets: Cornmeal oysters; Tavern burger; Bronx Is Burning cocktail
Hot seat: You're here for the roof.
Touch of the Irish: Tavern 29's owner hails from Stone Street Tavern, so expect a similar level of class-meets-meat-and-potatoes.
Nearby: The NoMad; SD26; The Breslin
The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.