Monday, January 26, 2015

You'll Like Mike

Downstairs at the Fontainebleau is a restaurant that's definitely going up


A boatload of spectacular restaurants have opened lately, so you're forgiven if you've missed the best of them.

That would be Michael Mina 74. You might have missed it because it's in a basement. 

Trust us, though, because when we say basement, we mean the ground floor of the Fontainebleu, where an old-school feel of leather gangster booths, dim lighting, and wood trim make you feel like Prohibition is back.

Luckily, the mixologist circling the room is a reminder that it's not. Take his suggestion: a barrel-aged cocktail, like the Magic City (bourbon, kaffir lime syrup, and bling-inducing gold leaf).

But nothing is more blinged-out than tableside service outside the club. And here, your catwalk-worthy server will swing by with a roving cart to build shellfish plates before dinner, or break open your pot pie to reveal a flaky, fluffy marriage of lobster and pastry.

But if you don't want her help, go with the insanely tender octopus salad (pictured) or the wagyu beef shabu-shabu style
, which you're just going to have to see to believe.

Kinda like this whole place, given Miami's best new restaurant is buried inside a hotel basement. 

We like you, 2014. You're full of surprises.

Michael Mina 74
4441 Collins Ave., Miami Beach
(305) 674-4636

Price: 4 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Valet
Scene: Swank Miami Beach setting meets a chef with serious chops
Best bets: Tableside shellfish service; Maine lobster pot pie; Japanese wagyu shabu-shabu
Hot seat: Dining like a don in the half-circle gangster booths
Nearby: The Dutch; LIV; Gotham Steak

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