Everybody knows about Key West's fall-over-drunk side. But there's only so long you can pretend you're Hemingway at Sloppy Joe's.
So when it's time to move on from the Bourbon-Street-meets-the-Caribbean vibe, here's where you can find the other side of Key West. Don't worry: there will still be cocktails.
AN ACTUAL BEACH
Key West isn't known for its fine beaches, but maybe the best of them is hidden behind the walls of the grand Casa Marina, A Waldorf Astoria Resort at the southern end of the island. Balconies and the pool area overlook turquoise waters that don't stop until Cuba.
$279 and up per night. 1500 Reynolds St. (888-303-5717).
You won't find cruise passengers in Mickey Mouse T-shirts at Seven Fish Restaurant, which proudly touts itself as Key West's hometown bistro. What you will find are fish brought in that morning, then dressed up that night in a Thai yellow curry sauce. Hint to look like a local: don't show up on a rickshaw.
632 Olivia St. (305-296-2777).
THE SEAS AT SUNSET
There's nothing quite like the craziness of Mallory Square at sunset, with its cocktail booths and fire-eating buskers. But on your second Key West night, head out for a sunset sail on the Appledore II, an old-school wooden schooner. Admission scores a bottomless bar.
$45. 205 Elizabeth St. (800-507-9955).
WINE ON DUVAL
Down on the less barfy end of Duval, three wine bars cater to the crowd that drinks its booze in stemmed glasses. All three of them — Grand Vin, Nine One Five, and Vinos on Duval — have big porches to watch the parade of nuts that is Key West.
Grand Vin, 1107 Duval St. (305-296-1020).
Nine One Five, 915 Duval St. (305-296-0669).
Vinos on Duval, 810 Duval St. (305-294-7568).