Saturday, October 25, 2014

Fire and Ice

SushiSamba rolls out in Coral Gables

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Our Sunday nights are feeling rather vapid.

Even little Joffrey's feeling jilted.

But now we've got a dining destination just gaudy (yet classy) enough to fill our dragonless Sunday evenings: the new SushiSamba in Coral Gables.

Trust your newfround free time to chefs as well-versed with the blade as anyone on Thrones. 'Cause while anyone can roll some seaweed into rice, they're stuffing signature Samba Coral Gables rolls with lobster, red jalapeno, and spicy Japanese rice crackers.

So, no. These aren't impish.

And since this place also offers the only Robata grill in the area, you've gotta try the sea bass before spooning the Key Lime Tart spectacle made of a clear sugar sphere (that needs to be cracked to eat) and crispy key lime, sprawled on a wooden board in a striking artistic spread.

You learned from the Red Wedding to never sit long at a table. So if you do choose the best seat in the house — a.k.a. the brightly illuminated bar beside the open kitchen — you'll be closest to Shiso Fine vodka brews mixed with house-made red Thai basil syrup.

Damn, there we go thinking about the Red Wedding again.

SushiSamba sushisamba.com
180 Aragon Ave., Coral Gables
(305) 448-4990
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Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Parking: Valet; street; lot
Scene: Hungry, brightly colored after-work crowd
Best bets: Robata grill sea bass; Samba Coral Gables roll; key lime tart
Hot seat: Throwing back fancy cocktails at the illuminated bar
Nearby: Houston’s; Bulla; Swine Southern Table & Bar

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