Sunday, November 23, 2014

Oma Casa Menu

Leave your Japanese-Italian meal in the elegant hands of Orsa & Winston

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You yearn for simpler times. When your mom didn’t know your Twitter handle. When people talked about Kanye, not Kimye.

When you watched The Learning Channel to actually learn (and not about stuff like this).


Chef Josef Centeno feels you. He’s going back to basics with his third restaurant, Orsa & Winston, opening today.
 
Where his Bäco Mercat is rustic, and Bar Amá funky, chef-owner Centeno’s latest is contemporary, straightforward, and date-night classy.
 
Instead of taco-and-flatbread mash-ups, you'll find ingredient-driven, Italian- and Japanese-inflected fare at Orsa. Think koshihikari rice with pecorino cream, uni and razor clam (read: bomb-ass risotto).
 
Instead of being saddled with lots of decisions, you only have to choose between a five- or nine-course tasting menu. Or go for the 20-ish-course grand tasting at the chef’s counter. If you don’t leave with a food baby, you’re doing it wrong.
 
And no fussy craft cocktails either, just pair your meal with beer, sake, or wines from the Old World. 
 
It's the KISS principle, slightly altered: Keep it simple and satisfying.

Photo courtesy Dylan James Ho

Orsa & Winston
122 W. 4th St. (and Spring), Downtown
(213) 687-0300
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Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)

Scene: Bäco-lovin' yupsters
Hot seat: The four-seat chef's counter
Best bets: Coddled egg; grand tasting; koshihikari rice
Nearby: Bar Amá; Perch; Grand Central Market
 

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