Friday, January 30, 2015

Pasta La Vista

Evan Funke (finally) opens his Italian citadel


We get it: there's something about the word "laboratory" that makes you feel uneasy.

Perhaps you've been having nightmares about eating that creepy lab-grown stem cell burger. Or maybe you're still traumatized by the time you burned off all your eyebrows in your high-school chem lab.

Whatever your hangup, Chef Evan Funke (Rustic Canyon, Milo & Olive) will flip your script, thanks to his first restaurant, Bucato, a 3,400-square foot homage to noodles, including two outdoor patios and a bona fide pasta laboratory.  
In said lab, your pasta is mixed and kneaded by hand.
On said patio, you’ll enjoy that pasta in the form of tortellini romagnoli or strascinati (cousin of the dumpling), swimming in a braised pork shoulder ragu. Pair it with some lambrusco, a fizzy red wine the ladies love.
What you won’t do: Instagram that extremely photogenic creamy burrata with figs. Unfortunately, this place has a strict no cellphone and no photography policy.
Because some meals should remain sacred.

3280 Helms Ave., Culver City
(310) 876-0286

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Parking: Valet
The scene: Neighborhood yuppies and Funke fans
Best bets: strascinati, lambrusco
Hot seat: On one of the outdoor patios
Nearby: Father’s Office; Lukshon; Muddy Leek

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