Friday, October 24, 2014

Scratch Point

A crew of La Cienega foodie all-stars goes avant-garde

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A Cobb Salad. Strawberries and champagne. A boneless, skinless chicken breast.

Sound like the room service menu at a mediocre hotel?
 
At Scratch Bar, such dishes aren’t what they seem. In fact, they’re magical.
 
Let’s back up for a second and observe the wizards behind the (kitchen) curtain: Phillip Lee, Joel Miller, and Ryan Duval come from the likes of Providence, Animal, and New York's wd-50. Behind the stick? David Fernie from Pour Vous.
 
Come on in and bring the kind of crew that knows sweetbreads aren’t sweet or breaded and get ready to try lots of small plates (some so small, they’re in a section called bites, read: literally bite-sized.)
 
For starters, fire an order of those just-mentioned thymus glands — with hamachi. Pair it with the Hero Heat-o, which tastes like a sake daiquiri.   
 
Then things go all Eyes Wide Shut on you. That Strawberries and Champagne is actually a salad with mache, figs, goat cheese and pickled cucumbers (your server will drizzle it with a strawberry and champagne gazpacho).

That Cobb Salad? It’s lettuce-less, instead piled with rows of caviar, rice, avocado mousse, sea urchin, and pork belly. And that chicken breast? It’s served with four-hour blistered tomatoes and cayenne.  
 
Can you even imagine if these guys used that in a BLT?

Scratch Bar scratchbarla.com
111 N La Cienega Blvd. (Clifton Way), Beverly Hills
(310) 289-8010
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Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Shares valet with Matsuhisa
Scene: Serious foodies
Best bets: Hamachi and sweetbreads, chicken breast, Hero Heat-o
Hot seat: Near the kitchen for added olfaction action
Nearby: The Phoenix; Matsuhisa; Roger Room

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