Orso became Il Covo. Zucca became Il Soleto. Next week, Italian institution Il Sole also enters its second life.
Enter the Drago. Osteria Drago, that is, relocated from Santa Monica.
But first, enter the light: Like a nod to two-thirds of West Hollywood, the interior has been bleached out in oak, white light fixtures and gauzy curtains. This ethereal effect extends to the front bar, adorned with a light sculpture made of three miles of wire.
But those familiar with Drago’s cooking (along with chef Evan Gotanda, from Santa Monica’s Drago) will know that the dishes are the real divinity.
Witness the baby beet salad with pistachio dressing. Or the spelt with poached egg, truffle oil, and prosciutto, or the venison carpaccio with hazelnut salt and anchovies. And of course, Drago’s most classic dish of pappardelle with roasted pheasant and morel mushrooms carries over to this locale, too.
With 250 wines to choose from and 10 bottled beers, you could be here a while, which is precisely why they built that loungy room next door.
Perimeter mirrors, low sofas and plenty of pillows make it the perfect place to unveil your own reincarnation.