Meet the new boss, same as the old boss.
Dan Tana's has the formula down: simple red meat/red sauce dishes. Surly old-school waiters who will do shots with you. Clooney sightings. Golden.
Now Tana's maitre d' for the last two decades has opened Craig's, just around around the corner on the sleepy end of Melrose.
Craig Susser himself waits at the end of a long, see-and-be-seen entryway, greeting defecting Tana's regulars in a familiar, but slightly tweaked atmosphere.
Waiters are suited up, but they're a half-century younger, and amiable, if reserved. Booths are blue instead of red. And it's way less cramped at the bar (though the TV is still tuned to basketball).
Menus created via typewriter lay out the dishes in stark simplicity, with just a name and a (high) price. Meldman's Honey Truffle Chicken. Delmonico Steak. Shrimp Cocktail.
No elaboration necessary. You'll still feel right at home.
8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood (310) 276-1900
Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: $7 valet
Scene: Old Hollywood meets Young Hollywood
Best bets: Honey truffle chicken; Delmonico steak; mac n' cheese
Hot seat: Unless Craig knows your name, take anyplace he wants to put you.
Nice touch: Valets leave a tasty surprise in your car.
Nearby: Dan Tana's; The Troubadour; Cecconi's
The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.
Photo courtesy Elizabeth Daniels.