Friday, January 30, 2015

Get Chewsy

Chef Eddy of Pakpao fame opens Bite City Grill in Fort Worth


When one Thai door closes in Dallas, an urban culinary experience window opens in Cowtown.
-- Ancient Philosopher (or perhaps a publicist)

In either case, it's true. Chef Eddy Thretipthuangsin created magic-for-your-mouth dishes when he opened Pakpao last year, making it a must-visit dining destination.

One graceful exit later and we get Bite City Grill, Chef Eddy's foray into the small-plates arena that pepper in his signature Asian spices and techniques into more mainstream cuisines.

Starting tomorrow, his dinner-only menu (lunch comes in April) features the expected (fried calamari, shishito peppers), the bold (lemongrass coconut clams with basil and Spanish chorizo), and the utterly tantalizing (Tuna Tataki flatbread with cream cheese, baby arugula, and yuzu vinaigrette).

Then come the big bites.

Resist temptation and skip past his thoughtful twists on entree classics (five-spice spare ribs, diver scallop risotto) and go for the one dish that promises to make Texas Redfish a breakout star: a combination of mild, sweet fish with P.E.I. mussels, Spanish chorizo, olives, capers, tomatoes, and seasonal vegetables.

Reminds us of another famous saying:
Never, never, never give up — anything with Spanish chorizo.

Bite City Grill
2600 W. 7th St., Fort Worth

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Best Bets: Lemongrass coconut clams; tuna tataki flatbread; seared Long Island duck
Nearby: Lucky Strike; Sweet Sammies; The Boardroom Salon for Men

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