Monday, January 26, 2015

Back to the Future

Genaro's brings back Mix-Mex


Imagine if Mad Men were set in Dallas. During the 1980s.

You'd see a packed Genaro's Tropical filled with business executives, politicians, and local celebrities making deals over two-hour lunches. But instead of martinis, there were margaritas. In place of cigarettes, cigars.

That was the true scene from an era when Genaro Silva was Dallas restaurant royalty, infusing elegance and sophistication into a Mexican fusion genre he called Mix-Mex.

After bowing out of his successful restaurant career, Silva is back in the biz with Genaro's Mexican Cuisine, opening Friday and bringing back his most requested menu items for a whole new generation of diners.

That means linguini with clams, mussels, shrimp, squid, and snapper in tequila cream sauce; rellenos del mar (mild poblano peppers lightly breaded and filled with shrimp, crab, snapper, and cheese); and beef tenderloin covered in red wine, mushroom, and black bean cream sauce.

Out there on the huge covered patio or in the naturally lit dining room, don't be surprised if you match a margarita to every shellfish on your plate.

Doubt those New York advertising guys could handle it.

Photo credit: Kevin Marple

Genaro's Mexican Cuisine
6465 E. Mockingbird Ln., Lakewood
(214) 828-4676

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Best bets: Mussels in spicy seafood broth; rellenos del mar; spinach and seafood enchiladas
Nearby: Torchy's Tacos; Burger House; Olivella's

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