Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Spice of Life

Discover Mexican food reinvented at Mesero Miguel

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Mico Rodriguez is the man with the golden, well, tortilla chip.

His forays into the Dallas dining scene are always eagerly anticipated, and for him lightning strikes often. Just look at the man's track record: Mi Cocina, Taco Diner, and his most recent home run, Mr. Mesero.

Not one to rest on his laurels, Rodriguez is completely rewriting the book on Mexican cuisine (again) with newcomer Mesero Miguel.

The reinvention begins with the space. The old Cuba Libra space is now a two-story, 5,000 square-foot hyperloop/time machine to 1960s Palm Springs where heat meets hip, just like the menu.

You'll find seared scallops atop warm coconut and prickly pear broth of La Rosa Pistola (above), Maine lobster hand rolls, and guacamole so evolved they call it smashed avocado.

Even the chile con queso has been spiked with spinach, hearts of palm, and roasted poblano.

But you're here for ceviche. And not the shrimp or scallop variations. You're going big.

You're getting the lobster ceviche. It's going to make you wonder why you didn't discover it sooner in life. You'll be haunted by its simple yet complex flavors derived from fresh lemon, lime, orange and cucumber even as you chase it down with brisket, halibut, or duck confit tacos.

What you won't try to do is make lobster ceviche at home.

Remember, this isn't Rodriguez's first restaurant. The man's a professional.

Mesero Miguel meseromiguel.com
2822 N. Henderson Ave., Knox-Henderson
(214) 821-6428
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Price: 3 (out of 4)
Best Bets: La Rosa Pistola; Prime NY Strip; Micorita on the rocks
Parking: Free valet; self parking
Nearby: Sissy's Southern Kitchen; The Old Monk; The Porch

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