Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Top That

Hearty gets a beefy makeover at Spritz Burger


You know the drill: a double at Au Cheval when you’re feeling fancy, or the secret-sauce covered creation at Scofflaw to channel In-N-Out.

But your burger playbook is missing one important audible: where to go for your poutine burger fix.

The answer is Spritz Burger, and it’s the answer to all your beefy cravings under one roof.
If this looks oddly familiar to Hearty, that’s because it is. The Lakeview restaurant got a facelift with blue wallpaper and a retro green-tiled bar overlooking the tiny restaurant that you swear is staring at you.

Don’t let it distract you. There are a dozen burgers to be consumed, from the gluttonous poutine burger with fries, cheddar cheese curds, and sage country gravy to the spicy WTF (Wow That’s Fiery!) with pepper jack cheese, jalapeno jam, chipotle lime aioli, tajin tortilla strips, and focaccia.

Along with the new look and the meaty new menu, the owners (Dan & Steve from Hearty Boys Catering) took on a new partner, pastry chef Gale Gand, to handle sweets including a blueberry ginger hand pie with lemon glaze and chocolate devil dogs with marshmallow fillings.

Somewhere between the second devil dog and a Rice Krispies Treat, the nostalgic bug will kick in and you will notice this isn’t your average burger joint. It’s also a soda shop with Salted Caramel Egg Cream spiked with Weizenbock and Sabai Fizz made with aged rum, Batavia Arrack, Thai curry shrub, and spritz.

Just in case your burger playbook needed that "Thai curry shrub" audible, too.

Spritz Burger
3819 N. Broadway St. (between Sheridan & Grace), Lakeview
(773) 868-9866

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Red Line to Sheridan
Scene: Despite the makeover, locals still flock to see their hometown culinary celebs.
Best bets: Amish B&B burger; Mac & Cheeto burger; root beer float
Nearby: Holiday Club; Tac Quick; Horizon Cafe

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