Saturday, January 31, 2015

Bird's the Word

An underground dinner club spawns a restaurant


Only one place can fry a bird so perfectly that they named the whole restaurant after it.

And it’s not KFC. It’s Honey Butter Fried Chicken, the new Avondale eatery that's flipping the bird to mediocre fried chicken.
Born out of the underground dinner club Sunday Dinner, this legendary fried chicken — we're talking juicy meat served with a dollop of honey butter encased in a crispy skin with a paprika kick — spawned such a rabid following at those events that a restaurant was not just demanded but inevitable.

Whether you're a dinner club vet or honey butter newbie, you'll be clucking in approval inside their rustic dining room of reclaimed barn wood and hand-painted murals.

Order it as a two, four, or eight-piece entree or as a sandwich on a buttered bun with candied jalapeño mayo and crunchy slaw. Succulent sides like pimento mac ‘n’ cheese and daily pickle specials are additional KFC job killers.
After placing an order at the honeycomb counter, head to the back bar where wine, craft beer, and cocktails await. Try the Coriander Sangrita made with tomato, rum-barrel hot sauce, tequila, lime, and a can of Tecate.
Sure beats whatever soda machine abomination you were crafting at KFC.

Honey Butter Fried Chicken
3361 N. Elston Ave. (at W. Roscoe St.), Avondale
(773) 478-4000

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Subway: Blue Line to Belmont
Scene: Regulars at Sunday Dinner Club and fried chicken fanatics
Best bets: Honey Butter Fried Chicken; pimento mac 'n' cheese; corn muffin
Nearby: Hot Dougs; Kuma's Corner; Urbanbelly

Photo courtesy Nick Murway

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