Friday, January 30, 2015

Mazel Tov!

Find religion at Sodikoff's new deli of borscht and bone marrow


Never thought sexy and grandmother could be used in the same sentence?
Then you've never been to Dillman's, Brendan Sodikoff’s new Jewish deli serving grandmother-approved veal schnitzel in seductive velvet booths lit by crystal chandeliers.
The guy who brought us the addictive Au Cheval cheeseburger and Gilt Bar’s cocktail library has done it again with an all-day dining destination channeling old New York.

Think checkered floors and subway-tilled walls in a space three times as large as your corner deli, with two dining areas, a wood bar, and a sultry lounge complete with fireplace-adjacent overstuffed chairs.
It’s a place where during the day you can impress your boss with house-cured corn beef on rye, and return later with your girlfriend for lemon pepper salmon and roast beef French dip. Jewish favorites get a modern, if slightly sacrilegious, makeover with lox and whitefish terrine. Even the borscht is served with bone marrow.
Classic cocktails (Negroni and Old Fashioned) are balanced by more adventurous concoctions, from a Cocchi Mimosa to the Italian Mule made with Cynar.

Word to the wise: On your way out, grab an order of latkes to go. They'll help ward off the guilt. And the hangover.

354 W. Hubbard St. (at N. Kingsbury St.), River North
(312) 988-0078

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Subway: Brown Line to Merchadise Mart
Scene: A far cry from paper napkins and linoleum counters, this classed-up deli attracts a more refined dining crowd.
Best bets: Classic reuben; chicken pot pie; veal schnitzel
Nearby: The Grid; Coco Pazzo; Gilt Bar

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