Monday, January 26, 2015

Heads Up

Buckets of kimchi and whole fish heads served family style


Taco Tuesdays, Spaghetti Wednesdays, please meet your new partner-in-crime: Fish head Thursdays.
Bring the gang because this shareable special at Wicker Park's new foodie paradise, Mott St., serves six. Picture a whole roasted fish head covered with black bean sauce that comes on a plate the size of a small tire, costs $200, and just made dinner infinitely more interesting.
Shared plates of casual Asian cuisine are served up in a dining room that doubles as the chef’s pantry, where shelves of rice, tomatoes, olive oil, and more kimchi than you eat in a lifetime are protected by chicken wire.
All that kimchi is put to excellent use in deep fried Oaxacan spring rolls, udon soup with spicy marinated cod roe, and seaweed, and Korean-style lasagna with napa cabbage, pork butt, and sticky rice. Before you ease into a kimchi coma, get finger deep in "everything" chicken wings seasoned with sesame, poppy seeds, and fried shallots.
Beyond the chicken wire, head out to the multi-level patio for an And Tonic made with shochu, Cocchi Americano, orange bitters, and Cava. An uber-select draft list is limited to two — Liefmans Goudenband and Brooklyn Sorachi Ace — while the wine, sake, and bottled beer lists are perfect to wash away your kimchi breath.

If fish head is indeed the new pork belly, then that's doubly good news for our waistlines.

Mott St
1401 N. Ashland Ave. (at W. Blackhawk St.), Wicker Park
(312) 200-0000

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Subway: Blue Line to Division
Scene: With food from the Ruxbin guys and drinks from a Longman & Eagle alum, the restaurant attracts serious foodies.
Best bets: Everything wings; Hangtown fry; Stuffed cabbage
Nearby: The Savoy; Antique Taco; Emporium

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