Saturday, January 31, 2015

Stetson's Goes Jetsons

Steak with a choice of six countries


For the last 25 years, Stetson's has been a standby for power meals of every stripe: from formal dinners with the in-laws and third-date swings for the fence to a mainstay for every Chicago mayor and mob boss.

If Wrigley isn't immune to the changing times, surf & turf surely isn't, either. The newly renovated Stetson's (in the Hyatt Regency) has gone Jetsons with a full-scale menu makeover of steak and sushi, schizophrenically delivered in fusions of Chinese, Greek, German, Italian, Japanese, and American flavors.

We can empathize with commitment issues like these.

Take that skirt steak with a choice of six sauces, from chimichurri to applewood smoked bacon bourbon. Then chase it with some shrimp tempura, BBQ eel, or Latin style bruschetta for a truly eclectic meal.
With a revamped dining room equipped with a marble fireplace, open kitchen, glass-encased wine racks and an in-house sommelier, the interior may lean contemporary but the drinks remain as classic as ever.

Old Chicago lives on in alcohol with the Al Capone (gin, dry vermouth, orange juice, and orange bitters) and Flapper (whiskey, Campari, lemon juice, and Peychaud’s bitters) cocktails.

Some things are better left unchanged.

Stetson's Modern Steak and Sushi
151 E. Wacker Dr. (at Stetson Ave.), The Loop
(312) 239-4491

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Red, Brown, Green, Purple, Prink, or Orange Line to Lake
Scene: Hotel guests from the Hyatt Regency and power diners
Best bets: Chef's selection of sushi or nigiri; braised ox tails; tomahawk chop
Hot seat: Keep warm at a four-top table in front of the fireplace
Nearby: South Water Kitchen; Tavern at the Park; Sable Kitchen + Bar

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