When Sushi Wabi closed last year after losing its lease, it was the end of an era.
And the start of the Dark Ages for Chicago sushi.
But now it's leading the Renaissance under a new name, Sushi Dokku, in a new space right across the street from its old location on Randolph Street.
Relying on a minimalist décor of dark wood tables and booths, Dokku offers views of new neighbors Little Goat and Nellcote from a long counter overlooking the open kitchen and small bar.
Snack on small plates of fried shishito peppers and udon noodles, or let the experts do what they do best and order from the menu of chef’s nigiri bites.
When the time arrives to tackle the dragon roll, whose absence has left a gaping sushi-sized hole in your soul, make sure you're properly hydrated with one of four Japanese beers or a sake cocktail like the sakerita (sake, house-made sour, and fresh cucumber).
Now that they've re-mastered the art of dinner, they plan to begin serving lunch and delivering to the Loop and West Loop for those of us still living through the Dark Ages of another Chicago winter.
Uni in 30 minutes or less? Sounds like an Age of Enlightenment to us.
Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Green or Pink Line to Morgan
Scene: Chopstick-wielding foodies longing for the sushi king's rebirth
Best bets: Ikura; Godzilla; mini filet mignon
Nearby: Little Goat; Nellcote; Haymarket Pub