Thursday, January 29, 2015

Born on a Bayou

South Carolina invades Wicker Park at Carriage House


At this rate, Division Street might want to start installing horse troughs and saloon doors.  

Because after installing southern-style po' boys into a one-of-a-kind bank vault, the team behind The Bedford has now installed South Carolina import Carriage House, just one block down.  

Bedford's underground bank chic has been replaced with plantation white, accented in mirrors and reclaimed window frames, all of which exist to accent the truly southern touch: an outdoor patio.  

You might think you know Carolina pulled-pork, but Carriage House pulls its menu into modern times with a twist on Confederate fare thanks to a unique menu divided into traditional and re-imagined plates.  

The old way: shrimp and grits. The new way: baked grits with truffle vinaigrette. Try one, the other, both, or the supper-sized entrée of crispy pork shoulder and more grits.  

The cocktails are served in contrast as well. Though the Creole cocktail is rooted in Buffalo Trace, Carpano Antica, Ramazzotti, Benedectine and orange bitters, its modern doppelgänger drink is the chartreuse phosphate, containing green and yellow chartreuse and acid phosphate.

Only north of the Mason-Dixon Line can one satisfy a shrimp and phosphate fix simultaneously.

Carriage House
1700 W. Division St. (at Paulina St.)
(773) 384-9700

Price: 3 (out of 4)
Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Subway: Blue Line to Division
Scene: Dinner destination for fans of The Bedford or hearty yet refined comfort food
Best bets: Skillet cornbread; fried chicken thigh; beignets with coffee hot fudge
Hot seat: High-top table overlooking the open kitchen
Nearby: Bangers & Lace; The Bedford; The Anthem

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