Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Secret Sips

A basement bar with a saucy secret


What does one do with a vacant furniture superstore?

The answer in this case doesn't involve laser tag, but it does involve playing hide and seek in a new speakeasy restaurant/bar/lounge by the noncommittal name of Untitled.

How you explore this place is up to you. Just be ready to make multiple trips.

Start with drinks in the whiskey library before taking up residence in a curtain-shrouded booth in the adjacent dining room.

Feeling bold? Make some magic happen at the secluded chef’s table by pulling a cocktail out of a secret passageway — in the form of a window to the bartender.

It won't take long for you to realize this is a serious drinking establishment — classic, Prohibition-era cocktails are what's for dinner. Listen jazz singers while sipping on a Bootlegger’s Breakfast, made with bourbon, orange marmalade, aperol, and Peychaud’s bitters.

The food also comes roaring '20s-style, with oysters Rockefeller, chocolate-bourbon duck, and roasted squab.

Think you've seen it all? Hiding behind door number one (a.k.a. the parlor’s sliding back wall) are two more bars and lounge areas, plus a stage for ragtime bands and burlesque dancers.

Pick your jaw up off the floor, this is a classy joint.

111 W. Kinzie St. (btwn Clark & LaSalle), River North
(312) 880-1151

Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 3 (out of 4)
Scene: Not quite flappers in tassel dresses, but close
Subway: Red Line to Grand
Best bets: Grit cakes; pork belly confit; bison burger
Sounds good: Live music will play each night, from a fedora-wearing pianist to a trio of jazz singers.
Nearby: Mercadito, Double A Lounge,
Paris Club

Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.

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