Saturday, January 24, 2015

Locale Hero

North End's newest Neopolitan pizzeria is coming out hot


The North End doesn't suffer crap pizza lightly. 

Show your face on Hanover Street with a cheap, droopy slice of delivery pie, and you'll hear it worse than if you wore a Derek Jeter jersey.

In other words, only the strong survive, and newly opened Neapolitan pizzeria Locale didn't step in the ring to lose. 

Take it from us (our editor is a bare-knuckle enthusiast), the first thing to do when moving into a tough new neighborhood is to let people know you mean business. In this case, it's owner Jennifer Pittore (formerly of Sage) picking a prime piece of Hanover Street real estate and making sure the standard pizza benchmarks — the Margherita, the sopressata-and-garlic dressed Carmine — are good enough to silence the early skeptics.

As a matter of fact, many of the patrons remain silent in the 18-seat dining room, wordlessly gorging on Italian classics from local burrata with charred peppers to homemade oven-baked meatballs to prosciutto di Parma. 

But nothing is better in this rustic, wood-ceilinged spot than the pizzas. Bring friends, then split the white clam-lemon-garlic pie and a sweet Brussels sprouts pie with pancetta, pecorino, and smoked mozzarella. 

Yeah, we didn't know 'Brussels sprouts pizza' were fighting words, either.

352 Hanover St., North End
(617) 742-9600

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Green Line to North Station
Best bets: White clam pizza; Brussels sprouts pizza; local burrata
Nearby: Neptune Oyster; Lucca; Thinking Cup

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