Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Just the Tap

Kirkland Tap & Trotter makes some noise in Somerville


It's always the quiet ones you have to watch for. 

One minute they're paragons of formality and restraint, the next they're closing down the bar on a Tuesday night. 

Nothing wrong with that, especially if that bar is the Kirkland Tap & Trotter, the funkier, more casual little brother to chef Tony Maws' acclaimed Craigie on Main now open in Somerville.

Granted, the space already came from a storied, not-so-quiet past before he showed up: Located around the corner from Julia Child's former home, it used to house raucous rock shows as the no-frills Kirkland Cafe, back when Maws' real brother Alex would occasionally perform. 

The new Kirkland pays tribute to its roots while beginning to forge its own history with rustic wooden tables and bar stools, floor to ceiling windows, and exposed bricks and beams. A perfect spot for that just-a-bit-too-polished executive assistant.

Start her off with Maine mussels in toasted garlic and she might just start feeling chatty about those meetings you're not invited to. 

Stay the course, and by the time you two are polishing off Storm Clouds (Cocchi Americano, Fernet, soda) cocktails at 1a, having already shared the grass-fed burger, she'll be spilling secrets about corporate intrigue and her own dreams in and out of the boardroom.

And you can be an essential accomplice in both areas, of course.

Kirkland Tap & Trotter
425 Washington St., Somerville
(857) 259-6585

Price: 2 (out of 4)
Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Red Line to Harvard Square
Best bets: Grass-fed burger; Maine mussels; beer-braised veal ribs 
Nearby: Bronwyn; Dali; The Biscuit

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