West Bridge, opening this week in Kendall Square, is an ambitious new restaurant that aims to connect French cuisine with New England traditions.
It's also a place to get some really good fried pig's head.
Chef Matthew Gaudet, previously of South End bistro Aquitaine, straddles the line between upscale (the food) and casual (the setting) in his new venture.
First, you get comfortable. West Bridge is an inviting loft-style space featuring 18-foot ceilings and rustic wood in the dining room.
Then, you get to eating: the seafood-centric menu features calamari, sliced thin and pan fried, and fresh cod with white beans and chorizo.
Or if you're into teamwork, a lamb shoulder for the table.
Add a top-notch bar staff and a kitchen that stays open until midnight and you have the next must-try restaurant in Kendall Square.
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opens this week
1 Kendall Square, Building 300, Cambridge
Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Red Line to Kendall
Scene: Wam and inviting, with tall ceilings, reclaimed wood and metal beams.
Best bets: Crispy pig's head; venison; lamb shoulder (for the table)
Bridge beverages: Even the cocktails are all about the food, with a focus on seasonal drinks that complement the meals.
Nearby: Hungry Mother; The Friendly Toast; Think Tank
The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.