Monday, October 20, 2014

High Marks

Park makes the grade in Harvard Square



Harvard Square buzzes thanks to the hum of busy undergrads.

But don't worry, you won't find them here.

Escape the student scene at Park, your new cozy yet sophisticated oasis for cocktails and comfort food in the middle of Cambridge's college hub.

This place would make Ron Burgundy proud, with low-lit booths, a wraparound bar and dark wooden shelves lined with many leather-bound books.

No wheels of cheese await, but the bar staff has crafted a stellar lineup of 12 original cocktails to make up for it.

Try the Tom Terrific — Hayman's Gin and Cheery Heering spiked with an IPA — to go along with a robust draught selection and rotating cask beers.

Your dorm room comfort food never tasted this good. Dig into a hearty slice of the Meat Pie of the Day, served with peas and mashed potatoes, or the honey and sambal-glazed wings. 

Or graduate to the roasted mushroom risotto.

As fondly as we remember college, this place makes us glad to be grown-ups.

Park
59 JFK St. (South St.), Harvard Square
(617) 491-9581
parkcambridge.com

Price: 2 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Subway: Red Line to Harvard
Scene: A classic upscale New England vibe attracts a mid-20s-and-older crowd.
Best bets: Meat Pie of the Day; roasted mushroom risotto; Tom Terrific cocktail
Hot seat: Any of the leather-upholstered chairs in the lounge.
Chowder champ: The New England clam chowder, served with a single jumbo oyster cracker floating in the middle, is pure bliss.
Nearby: OM Restaurant & Lounge; Shay's Wine Bar; Charlie's Kitchen

The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.

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