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October 28, 2009
Seaside Sequel
Culver City's Fraiche comes to SaMo
When you've got gourmet guests on the Promenade, try Fraiche, an unpretentious French-Mediterranean that's taken over the former Riva space.

This sequel to the celebrated Culver City original (one of The NY Times' top ten US restaurants) might look like just another casual, upscale spot, but they do everything just that much better than you might expect. This is a grown-up, hype-free restaurant, with soft light and comfortable, intimate seating.

The staff helps set the mood. Professional and enthusiastic, they'll help steer you through a menu of unique, creative dishes you don’t often see. Even the sommelier makes the wine list accessible, focusing on the best option and (refreshingly) mentioning the price.

Start with meaty oysters and a charcuterie plate of salty prosciutto cut thicker than the easily disintegrating shavings you might be used to. A spicy, seasonal pumpkin soup with mushroom and cardamom marshmallows is rich enough to be a dessert.

Entrees are hearty variations on the Culver City originals. Thin black ink tagliettini and seafood is balanced perfectly, not drowning in pool of sauce. A sweetly glazed pork chop has just right amount of fattiness, making it moist and tender.
 
For dessert, order chocolate bread pudding with peanut brittle ice cream.
Fraiche
312 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica (310) 451-7482
fraicherestaurantsm.com
 
Price: 3 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: Valet or park in the least-frequented public garage on 4th just north of Wilshire.
Scene: Couples and local foodies on dining pilgrimages
Best bets: Kurobata pork chop; pumpkin soup; branzino en papillote
Hot seat: Corner banquettes by the front window give views of inside and out.
New chef: Jason Travi is no longer in the kitchen, but he'll be back in LA with a new spot soon.
Nearby: Penthouse at the Huntley; Shangri-La; Laemmle Theatres
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